The world’s fashion
watchers cried “Bonjour Paris” on Wednesday as they bid good-bye to
Milan and headed to the City of Light for the last installment of menwear
shows for spring-summer 2017.
Twenty-four-year-old Chinese superstar actor Yang Yang
hit the front row for Valentino,
alongside “American Psycho” musical star Benjamin Walker.
The
American actor rocked a check Valentino suit that hit a dapper note very much
in keeping with the collection’s opulent venue — the 19th century mansion Hotel
Salomon de Rothschild.
The
show was all about the “unfinished.”
Faded
denim cowboy shirts and jackets had pockets ripped off to produce colour
contrasts; and random-looking intarsias on coffee cup brown coats — and on
oversize outerwear — had a deconstructed effect.
Mottled
camouflage prints on a slim fitting sweater, meanwhile, had a blurry incomplete
feel. Camouflage is now a signature for Valentino’s designers Maria Grazia
Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who have only been doing men’s fashion for a few
years.
While
many of these looks made the “incomplete” statement in a creative way — with
random badges and accessorizing motifs — the styles greatly benefited when the
designers widened their repertoire: Like a standout black coat with studs
sprinkled, almost haphazardly, on the collar.
The age of email
and rising ecological awareness doesn’t seem to have left a mark on the fashion
industry’s antiquated system of invitations.
Season after season, gasoline-guzzling couriers
crisscross Paris to deliver personally to fashion insiders the ever-elaborate,
often hand-made, show invites.
Top houses vie for the wackiest or most imaginative
idea.
Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme employ trusted
calligraphers who immortalize the names of each guest in baroque ink swirls —
works of art that usually end up thrown on the runway floor immediately after
the presentation.
This
season, an invite for a jewelry house show, Surplus Sound System, was a 7-inch
black vinyl record, with the show details on the B-side. It drove home the
point that old school is the style of choice for Paris fashion.
The
invitation to Dries Van Noten’s show was a heavy tablet of pottery with the
information stamped on.
The trend for the outdoors and the utilitarian has been seen in myriad
Milan spring shows — such as in Prada’s backpacks, Moncler’s
multi-pocketed clothes and Gucci’s rainwear.
It also infused Christophe Lemaire’s designs for his eponymous
Paris-based menswear house.
And the City of
Light, which has seen historic flooding and torrential downpours burst the
banks of the Seine River in recent weeks, is one city that could do with a
summer raincoat.
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